Monday, July 23, 2012

Climbing in Korea: The Great Helicopter Rescue

As I mentioned a couple of posts ago, I joined a group called Climbing in Korea (CIK) to do hikes. This weekend we went back Gangwon-Do province, but this time to a small town called Inje, where we ditched the rafts for some rock hopping. Having learned my lesson from the last hike, in which I found myself on an unexpectedly steep uphill climb, I figured that when they said we would be walking through the river with "our feet immersed" that we would actually be walking through waist deep water. Thankfully I came prepared to swim:

Post- posing by a waterfall picture (sorry I don't have it!). We went swimming too.
 That wasn't a jab at CIK, I love their hikes, I just feel anyone who joins should be warned that their hikes aren't necessarily for beginners (or those looking to stay dry if there is a river involved)!


The fallen tree really heightens the dramatic effect of wading through the river here...actually the river was very pretty:
Taken from the top of a boulder which I barely made it off of...sometimes hiking and short legs don't mix.
Unfortunately I got some water on my camera lens (the perils of hiking) but you get the idea. Nothing however, was more dramatic than this:

We were taking a break when suddenly this helicopter emerges from around the bend. For a second it sort of felt like that scene in Avatar when they wake up to those giant tree crushing machines about to take down Eiwa (alright honestly, the analogy that first popped into my head was that it sounded like some Northern neighbors were invading, but somehow that seemed inappropriate). 

Anyway, what we thought was some kind of Korean ranger practice turned out to be a real rescue mission for a...wait for it....a hiker who had sprained his ankle. While this seems super excessive, the trail was actually extremely rocky. Between that and having to wade through the river, it would have been nearly impossible to carry an injured person to the end of the hike. And the scene unfolds:


Here's Rescue Man #1 coming to save the day...the pictures are a little washed out because of all the water being stirred up by the helicopter...I don't know how many of you have ever had the pleasure of sitting beneath a helicopter in operation...but it's loud, windy, and doesn't go well with water.


Rescue Man #1, Rescue Man #2, and a lovely man from CIK helping out sprained-ankle guy...who I'm sure was a bit embarrassed by this whole scene (mind you there were about 50 other hikers sitting behind me also watching this happen). 


And there it goes...while this was happening we also realized that there was a snake on the boulder we were all sitting on (just a little guy, but still mildly terrifying). Never a dull moment in Korea...

The next day I hung around Seoul and walked to Insadong, which is the artsy walking district downtown. I'll do another post on it later when I get to see/ know more of it. On my way home though I finally passed the Cheonggyecheon River which I'd been wanting to see. It's a river that flows through downtown Seoul. It used to be covered up but recently became the focus of a massive urban renewal project, so they've been building all of this awesome park space around it. Kind of like the High Line in NYC, but for a river...


No cute news this week, but here's a photo of a cool magnet from a gallery in Insadong, complete with a wannabe Marilyn Monroe (a poor substitute I know....sorry!)



Tuesday, July 17, 2012

What to Pack for South Korea


You've probably noticed that my blog now has some additional flare from The Arrival Store on the side bar and bottom banner. I recently signed on to be a contributing blogger for the The Arrival Store (TAS), an American company that, among other services, will deliver bedroom, kitchen, household, electronic, and other items to your apartment before you arrive in Korea! They are starting a blog in order to expand their teacher resources. My first post was just published! You can see it on their site here: http://blog.thearrivalstore.com/?p=77

To my friends and family: I will be putting up my work for TAS (first week on the job advice, packing tips, etc) in addition to my personal posts, but don't worry! The majority of posts will still be about my own ridiculous adventures living and working in Korea! I am just putting the TAS posts on my blog in case anyone reading this finds out that they know someone who is moving/ thinking about moving to South Korea. If you could pass along my informational posts/ my blog along to anyone you know going to South Korea that would be super fabulous for me! 

In case you missed it.
The internet is chock full of forums with teachers panicking over what to pack for living in Korea. Many repeat the same questions: asking what to bring, how they can get a phone without an alien card, where they can find fitted sheets, if their straightener will work, etc. I'm promoting The Arrival Store because it saves me the trouble of answering all of these questions and writing a snooze-fest blog post.

Again, if you have a friend who needs these things and more, refer them to my blog and tell them to hit one of the banners for The Arrival Store! Poof!! All of their packing problems will be solvedItems can also be delivered to the airport, your school, or orientation meeting spots. You don't have to be a teacher, the service is for any foreigner moving to work in Korea.   

Having traveled abroad four times I can honestly say that this is one of the most helpful and convenient services I've ever used, especially since I'm living in a rural area and didn't have access to much transportation when I first got here. If you buy nothing else, I'd recommend these three items from TAS (trust me, they'll drastically improve your transition in Korea):

1) Cell Phone- you cannot get a cell phone in Korea without an alien card, which takes up to four weeks to receive (actually in my case it's been taking longer). You might be able to get a phone illegally, but it's not worth the trouble when you can have a working, legal phone delivered to your apartment. Not having a phone when you first get here can be super isolating, especially if you meet new people and then find you have no easy way to contact them!

2) Memory Foam Mattress Pad- I realize this is a splurge, but the rumors are true, Korean mattresses are about one step above concrete. In fact, I'd say using the term "mattress" is being polite. To be fair, I think this is because most Koreans actually sleep on floor pads instead of beds. Point is though, if you like a soft bed, you'll at least want to invest in a feather mattress pad. Otherwise, you'll definitely get some practice with Korean numbers counting sheep.

3) Sheets and Towels- alright this is two items, but whatever they basically go together. Due to the lack of beds in Korea there is also a lack of sheets, especially the fitted bottom one. They are impossible to find and very expensive, even at stores like E-Mart which are huge Target-like chain stores. Towels in Korea are also very small, if you want a nice big body towel I'd order a set or two. You can bring them from home I suppose but they take up a lot of space.

Here are also some personal packing tips I have (for things you can't get from The Arrival Store):

1) Bring your favorite toothpaste and deodorant- it's true that few Korean toothpastes contain flouride, plus in general I find them to be lacking in refreshing flavor. Deodorant is practically non-existent here and very expensive. Bring it!

2) Leave other toiletries at home - unless you're living truly out in the middle of no where, or super super picky about your cosmetics, chances are you will live near an E-Mart or similar store which will carry most popular American brands for around the same price. For girls especially you'll find that Koreans have their own great skin products. I've personally found that I like some shampoos and cosmetics better than what I get at home. I'm going to do a post on Skin Food, my new obsession, their Royal Honey skin care line is awesome.

Love. Love. Love.

3) Cover your eyes gentleman- if you're a girl and use tampons, bring them. Also hard to find and can be expensive! If you have a big chest, don't count on finding bras that fit you here either.

4) Shipping is cheaper than you'd think! If you are coming in the spring/ summer and don't want to be bogged down by bulky winter clothes, have your family/friends ship your heavier clothes later! Relatively cheap shipping, even for big boxes, takes about three weeks. I'm not sure of the exact rates, but I'm pretty sure it costs less than the baggage fees charged by airlines. Even if it costs as much as baggage fees, it will save you a lot of hassle in the airport.

5) A word on clothes/shoes- if you have small feet, I'd say American sizes 5-7, shoes here are cheap and easy to find! Don't worry about bringing tons of shoes cause I guarantee you'll buy more anyway. The one exception is sneakers! If you're a runner or hiker and want good shoes for intense physical activity, you'd probably be better off bringing a pair from home. Good sneakers here can be pricey and don't always have as good of support.

Typical Korean shoe shop in the subway.
I wouldn't stress too much about clothes unless you are very tall. While clothing here seems to run a bit small, there is no shortage of cute cheap clothes to buy in Korea! If you're a guy, perhaps you can get a suit or two made while you're at it.

6) I spent way too much money on a North Face backpacking pack for post-teaching traveling. My excuse was that I wanted something adjustable since I'm short...but it turns out that they sell adjustable packs in Korea for less than half the price. You can get cheap luggage here in general.

7) If you think you'd be into this: bring candy and little trinkets from your home country- they'll make great prizes for students! If you're a chocoholic, be warned, Korean chocolate is super mediocre. I've got a stash of Godiva in my fridge....

8) Coffee here is also mediocre unless you like really sugary lattes or bland instant coffee. If you're a big coffee drinker and want the real stuff, I'd bring your own. You can get a coffee grinder through The Arrival Store!

Korea (also) runs on Dunkin'


9) Medicine- if you're not one of those people who doses all your food with Sriracha and you're not sure how you're body is going to react to all of the new spicy food, I would bring some Tums or Pepto Bismal type medicine. Though they have pharmacies, Korean medicines usually come as a cocktail of several different pills. I'd suggest bringing along Advil, Nyquil, or whatever else you like to use for colds and the occasional aches and pains. 

Aside from these things, unless you are truly in the middle of no where, you can usually find what you need. It might be pricier, but if you really need something just buy it. If you don't want to spend the money, then you'll find a substitute or a way to live without it. There are even several Costcos scattered around the country where you can get American food products. Except limes...they don't sell limes in Korea...

Pretty much captures how I feel. 
Overall, teachers and students will be very welcoming and helpful, so if there's anything you need that you can't find, you'll have lots of help! Asking your teachers where to buy good food in your town might be a good idea. I used to go to E-Mart to get all of my food until another teacher told me about a great grocery store close to my apartment that gets all its vegetables locally. Sooooooo delicious!

The Countdown is Over: What to Do Your First Week on the Job

So you've just spent months gathering documents, weeks figuring out what to pack, days stressing about leaving. and now you're on your first day on the job in Korea. What do you do? My number one piece of advice is act and prepare as you would for any normal job (be professional, on time, organized, etc).  Some of the advice below may seem obvious, but it is also Korea specific (I know it's long, but this advice has been compiled from the responses of many teachers and recruiters).

Before arriving:

1) What clothes to bring- people tend to stress about what to wear their first week or two on the job as a foreign teacher. The general rule of thumb is to dress like you would for an interview for at least the first week or two, especially at a public school. First impressions in Korea are very important. After that you can adjust according to what the other teachers are wearing. Hagwons might have less formal dress codes since they are technically "after school" academies.

For women I'd suggest knee length (though a tiny bit shorter is okay) skirts or dresses, and a few good cardigans (the cheap ones they sell here tend to be awkwardly see-through). For men, no jeans or shorts. At public schools most male teachers wear button down shirts (short sleeve in the summer), but no jacket. Again though, hagwons may be less formal. Also, I was told by a male teacher that if you have facial hair, people might be confused and make motions for you to shave it off...what you do after that is up to your discretion, but keep it groomed.

PLEASE NOTE: For women in general, no matter where you are in Korea, at school or not, you'll find that Korean women do not show their shoulders (i.e. no tank tops) or wear low cut shirts. This isn't to say you can't wear these things ever, there's no law against it, but people tend to stare (though if you're a foreigner outside of Seoul they are probably going to stare a bit anyway). I would stay away from low cut shirts and the like, but mini skirts are a go here! Feel free to show all the leg you want while not at school.

2) Brush up on your grammar- this isn't a must if you're teaching younger kids, but it will definitely make you a better teacher if you know how to clearly explain grammar rules to your students when such questions arise! (You might find that the answer "I don't know, it's just how you say it..." won't cut it). I'd recommend the "The Grammar Bible" by Michael Strumpf and Auriel Douglas. It gives great, clear explanations of both basic and advanced grammar concepts, and has a humorous edge. Not as dry as most  grammar textbooks, and has fantastic Q & A sections with real life examples.



While in some schools you will find that previous teaching experience really isn't necessary, that isn't always the case. Some schools provide more explicit training than others, I myself had very little. Potential teachers should also note that all public schools now require TEFL certification. If you have the time, even the "120 hour" TEFL courses don't actually take very long. I don't know where they get those hours from, but I finished my certification in only a couple of weeks (certainly no where near 120 hours of actual work). It also might help you move up the pay scale in a hagwon, though I think that depends on the school.

3) READ YOUR ENTIRE CONTRACT- This goes for public and private schools. I'm not saying to pull it out every time there is a tiny problem (as my recruiter said, "it won't help the long term relationship even if you win that battle"), but if something major happens and you need to stand your ground, it will be helpful to actually know what you can expect from your school and what your school expects from you. That being said, you will also need to be able to compromise and make things work.

During:

1) Be on time!- this goes for any job, but in Korea they are not going to accept any excuses (note: teachers and students come to school even when they are sick with fevers). I don't mean to scare anyone, I'm sure some schools let it slide from time to time, but as an example, I arrived five minutes late to my first class the other day because I drove my motorbike to school for the first time and got a little lost (my school is out in the sticks). My co-teacher was somewhat understanding, but still gave me a stern lecture about being on time.

General rule: for the first week or two, arrive 10-15 minutes earlier than you need to (as they used to say at my summer camp, "if you're on time, you're late"). After that, arrive when your school tells you to and make sure you do what you need to do to make that happen (3 different alarms, a jug of coffee, k-pop, whatever). If you really want to earn brownie points, stay later than you need to even if it's just for show.

Have trouble getting up in the morning? Get one of these guys. It's an alarm clock that can jump off the table and hide. No reaching over and smashing the snooze button with this one.

2) Prepare to smile, even when you feel awkward- Koreans expect foreign teachers to be outgoing. If you smile and show genuine enthusiasm about teaching and being in Korea, it will make it easier for native teachers and students to open up to you.

It doesn't mean you'll get along with everyone immediately, truthfully not all teachers want to hang out with foreigners, but most people I know always find at least one co-worker/teacher they can depend on. This is even easier in hagwons where there will be several foreign teachers.

I wrote about this in another post on my blog but I'll repeat it here: Korean teachers and students are going to ask you personal questions, particularly about your age and marital status. Though you might feel a little judgment if you're a single woman in your 20s ("why no boyfriend?"), try to ignore it and realize that these questions are an important part of establishing a relationship with a Korean. These questions determine your status and how others will interact with you.

It's an unfamiliar concept to westerners, and you may not agree with it, but consider that in the Korean language, you cannot even determine how to address or speak to a person without this information. In Korean you use different verb forms depending on the age and status of the person you are speaking too.  In Korean you also call close friends and acquaintances different forms of "brother" and "sister" depending on their age and gender. For example, if I have a friend who is a girl and older than me I would call her 언니 (eon-ni). However, if a boy has a friend who is a girl and older than him he would call her 누나 (nu-na). 


3) Learn basic Korean phrases- when you first arrive at your school you will be introduced to many people and it will help to know basic formal greetings.
An'nyeong haseyo- "hello"
Kamsamnida- "thank you"
Mannaseo pangapsumnida- "It's nice to meet you" --> just sound it out, because this one is really important when you are meeting other teachers and your principle/director. It is a very polite phrase (there are less formal ways to say "nice to meet you" outside of school, with friends, etc).
an'nyeonghi gahseyo- "goodbye"- this gets a little tricky because this is what you say to a superior/older person when he/she is the one leaving, if you are the one doing the leaving, you say an'nyeonghi gyeseyo  (the pronunciation is "gah" vs. "gye" or "gay"). 

Always say hello and goodbye when entering an office or room full of teachers!!! It is a Korean custom. And while people may initiate handshakes, it is customary to bow when greeting someone. At first it feels awkward, but after two weeks I found myself doing it instinctively (probably even at times when it isn't necessary). 

I'd recommend learning hangul, the Korean alphabet. It's an easy to learn, very logical alphabet made up of 40 characters. Even if you don't understand spoken Korean, you can sound out things phonetically, and you'll often find that signs at restaurants and in touristy areas are actually English words written in hangul. Also, learn basic numbers! This will help you when shopping and in taxis. 


Not as scary as it looks I swear! (And way easier than Chinese).
4) Gifts- many people recommend bringing small gifts, something unique for your home country, to give to your principle and co-teacher. However this can be difficult if you don't know how many co-teachers you'll be working with (sometime you'll have more than one) before arriving. While a gift for the principle or director will always be appreciated, initial gifts are not as important as partaking in the culture of sharing. Instead of worrying about individual gifts, bring cookies or fruit for your co-workers one morning. No teacher in my office will ever eat something without offering a bit to everyone else. This one will definitely help win over your co-teachers! 

However, if you're invited to a teacher's home (or any Korean's home for a meal, party, etc), definitely bring fruit or a bottle of wine. No thank you note is required but it is customary to bring a small gift. 

NOTE: When you give someone a gift always give it to them with two hands, don't just hand it over casually. Also accept gifts with both hands. Same goes for pouring a drink (Soju or otherwise) for an older person/ superior/stranger. You may get taken out to dinner with your co-workers the first week; make sure to pour all drinks with one hand on the base of the bottle and one hand on the top. Koreans always pour drinks for one another, do not let the person's cup next to you get empty!


Do this! Though hopefully your gifts won't be as tiny...

5) On that notes, let's talk about sharing- if you don't like it (especially when it comes to food), get used to it!! Koreans share everything, I've even seen teachers taking food from other teachers' and students' trays during lunch (they give it away sometimes too). Most restaurants serve dishes meant for two or more customers.

Typical Korean restaurant meal. They love side dishes!
6)  The Classroom- rumor has it that Korean students are very well behaved. While it's been mostly true in my case, that isn't everyone's experience, so you will have to be ready to lay down some rules. If you don't use a firm hand in the beginning it will be very difficult to get back control later! If your students are in high school, perhaps try making a list of rules with them (it will help them to practice their English, allow them to demonstrate maturity, and establish guidelines). 

They won't hate you for it, rules and restrictions are a regular part of Korean society, I'd say more so than in the States. In general, there are a lot of major differences between Korean and American schools in terms of the student-teacher relationship and the way Korean students are taught. I am currently working on another post about this subjects because it is very important and probably one of the hardest adjustments for new teachers.  

7) Co-teachers- This applies to public schools only. Your co-teacher may be anything from your best friend at school, to your translator in the classroom, or to a silent figure who sits in the back of the room while you teach. There don't appear to be many guidelines for co-teachers and their role, so it's kind of the luck of the draw. 

You also may work with more than one co-teacher, some more helpful than others. No matter how you feel about your co-teacher(s), always try to compromise and make things work if a problem arises. In most cases, your co-teacher is just there to help translate if students don't understand something and to help manage the classroom. 


How co-teaching might feel sometimes.
Be aware that anything you tell your co-teacher will most likely become common knowledge among all teachers. There is a tendency to gossip. Don't want everyone knowing about your wild night in Hongdae? Then keep it to yourself. 

For public and private schools, understand that most Koreans don't live on their own until they are married. Other teachers and your principle/director may not grasp the idea that you are comfortable being independent. Their concern for you might be great if you need help buying a cellphone or want someone to show you around, but if you want to keep your school and private life separate it may take some more effort. For example, if you're sick and need to stay home, expect teachers to call and check up on you, or even try to stop by. In general, this shouldn't be a huge problem, but be aware that you may have to set certain boundaries. 

In general:

1) You're an example of western culture- You'll find out very quickly that as much as you are here to teach English, if you work outside of Seoul, you are also here to be an example of western culture for students, whose only other references may be TV and movies. Your students, fellow teachers, and people you meet on the street, may ask questions or say things that seem offensive or xenophobic. It's best to understand that for the most part, these questions (or comments) are not coming from a malicious place. In terms of having a modern economy, South Korea is a young country that is still adapting to an increasingly globalized world.

To some Koreans, you probably look like this. 
On the bright side, as a foreigner, especially if you have blonde hair or blue eyes, you will find yourself the recipient of many wonderful (and strange) complements. They will say you are beautiful, and I guarantee at least one person will complement you on your small face (they seem to think they have large faces and prefer Western facial structures).

Flipping back again, if you have blonde hair and someone asks if you're Russian or of Russian descent, SAY NO! Apparently there is a sizable community of Russian prostitutes in Korea...asking if you're Russian is more of a proposition than a question.

2) BE PREPARED FOR DISORGANIZATION- this is a big one, teachers at public and private schools will always say that no matter what happens (cancelled classes, last minute dinners, etc) just go with it and try not to let your frustration show (Koreans don't generally show a lot of emotion). I have to say, if you are a control freak who wants a consistent schedule, needs to know what is going on at all times, and likes everything to go according to a set plan, this might not be the job for you.

There is a lot of bureaucracy in Korean schools and they may do things that seem illogical or unnecessary (for example, I had to get permission from the principle to get rides to school from another foreign teacher who lives in my building...permission was granted, but it seemed like something that should have been purely my decision). It can be frustrating at first but it gets better as you settle into a routine (a flexible one that is).

2) There is tons of stuff to see, do, and learn in Korea. Be proactive in getting out there, but don't overwhelm yourself by trying to do it all at once. It might be hard to resist the urge since living in a new country can be very exciting, but it's better to experience new things once you have a better grasp of the culture and what's out there.



So this is all the "First Week" advice I have to give. There is lots more out there, especially since everyone's experience is different!! For more reading I'd suggest looking at http://kimchi-icecream.blogspot.kr/ which has great posts about cultural differences and teaching in Korea, as well as http://www.eatyourkimchi.com/ for Korean how-to's (gestures, games, phrases, how to use your washing machine!). However, at some point, turn off the computer, stop reading, and get excited for a great year! No matter how much you try to prepare, the best part about Korea is that you will always be surprised! 



Monday, July 16, 2012

Boryeong Mudfest

This weekend I went to the Boryeong Mud Festival, or as I have chosen to affectionately call it, the Dirty Foreigner Mud Convention (I mean dirty mostly literally...just a tad bit figuratively). While Koreans do attend, Mudfest is a huge hit with the expat community, it was by far the most English speaking people I've seen in one place since I've been here. What attracts throngs of weary foreigner teachers to this sleepy seaside town? I don't know, must be something in the mud...


It's so popular even Spidey and Batman came out for the occasion! I realize I look clean but that's only because I had to wash off after some random American dude got a little over zealous when he decided to rub his muddy hands on my face. Clearly I accidentally stepped into the line of fire. The before picture:

Some other members of the infamous Yeoju Crew!
If there was a "Creatures of the Deep" look-a-like contest I definitely would have won. Although I got covered, there was a surprising lack of mud slinging (the literal kind). I expected to see giant mosh-pit like trenches filled with a nice dirt, water, and foreigner mixture, but in typical, somewhat organized Korean fashion, there were just cute, brightly colored basins containing mud and brushes so you could gently paint yourself.


Not quite what I had in mind but it got the job done. According to Wikipedia (the source of all that is right and true) the festival began because of a cosmetics company trying to promote their mud products. While I did see such products being sold, I believe the festival has largely been endorsed by the Boryeong government to promote tourism, as this is really the only time people visit the town. Most of the restaurants were painfully unequipped to deal with the crowds. Foreigners be warned: finding breakfast in Boryeong will be a painful, fruitless, and heartbreaking journey.

The muddy sea of foreigners.
I certainly had a good time, but it takes some liquid courage to enjoy the mud and other activities without thinking about the questionably sanitary conditions (never fear, liquid courage is a bountiful commodity at Mudfest). Here's great photo I took from the top of one of the main buildings where you can see all of the bouncy castle type attractions they set up:


That's only a small portion of it, but you get the idea. There was no shortage of greasy street food and cheep beer tents. You can also see the mud slide and obstacle courses (ouch is right). Oh, and the one sad lonely "mud pit" where people were just kind of flailing around:


They also had colored mud body painting and a "Mud Prison"... yes, there are individuals who put themselves in this cage so someone could just throw mud at them...whatever you're into ya know? No judgement.


Those guys on top are the Mudfest mascots. You can see them on fixtures all over the town. It must be a very strange place to be the other 50 weeks of the year (the festival lasts two weeks) when there are virtually no tourists. Case in point, the clouds do not flatter this square filled with weird ice cream themed sculptures like this one:


I knew I had wandered too far searching for breakfast when I found this guy. I don't mean to give Mudfest a bad rap, it was definitely fun, but after 12 hours of muddy debauchery you'll probably find yourself wanting to go home and take a nice nap/ shower. Parts of the beach are nice, but I could see why it's not a Korean hot spot. On the bright side, the mud did make my skin feel nice and soft!

And of course, the cute news never ends. This guy was chillin' outside our hostel:


I need to carry this picture in my pocket . Who could say no to that face? Nope, not me.

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Riding a Motorbike in Korea, Red Lights Optional

Riding a motorbike, or moped, in the States is about as cool as driving a ten year-old mini van...oh wait, I already did that....well I guess for the sake of continuity I recently bought a moped to get around Yeoju since my apartment is a bit far from my school/ the downtown.

Gangsta.
In my humble opinion however, riding a moped in Asia is way cooler than doing it in the States because 1) lots of people drive them here 2) I'm in Asia...this sounds really obnoxious (probably cause it is) but seriously, try adding "in Asia" to the end of any first person verb phrase and see how infinitely cooler it sounds..."I hiked a mountain....in Asia", "I went to a water park...in Asia", "I ate a bug...in Asia"...see what I mean?

And the big number 3) unless you're at a major intersection or downtown, traffic laws in rural Korea are OPTIONAL. Red lights? I ran three of those this morning. Now I'm not doing this out of sheer stupidity. Some people do obey traffic lights, signs, etc, so I simply follow what the other cars around me are doing. If it's an empty street and everyone is running the red light then I will run it too...it's better to run the light than get passed by cars and trucks, which is quite scary. Also since I'm technically still a bike (no license or registration required), I'm not sure how much traffic laws apply to me anyway...I mean...I park on the sidewalk.

The first week I had my bike I was pretty much too scared to ride it, a fear which I attribute to my parents (hi mom! hi dad!). However, this isn't because they are overly paranoid, in fact, it's their lax attitude towards most other things that made me think twice about getting a bike. In general, my parents have been surprisingly cool about my many shenanigans (transferring to a college 1500 miles away, an impromptu trip to Bratislava, moving to South Korea...), but I've always heard them talk about how dangerous bikes can be.

I found it extremely uncomfortable at first. The throttle can seem jumpy and making good turns is tricky; you can't be afraid to stick your feet out for balance.  It took me a few tries to stop and go without wobbling all over the place. I also made the mistake of learning on the go in real traffic. Why you ask? I don't know...because I'm in Korea and logic has escaped me a bit. Luckily no one was hurt by my inaugural solo ride through the downtown (though they may have been offended by my dress which was riding up the whole time). 

I got my bike for a good price since I bought mine from another foreign teacher who is moving. If you're moving to Korea and looking to get a bike you can get cheap used ones for as low as 400,000 won (around $375), though usually they run around 500,000 won. If you're buying one in a shop, bring a co-worker or someone one who speaks Korean so you don't get ripped off and/or end up buying a crappy bike.

Even if you don't need one for daily use, it's fun to hop on a country road, open up the throttle (max out at 45 mph) and feel the breeze. Now that I've gotten used to riding it I don't know what I'd do without it...probably a lot of walking or hand gesturing to cab drivers. I started going to a Korean class and so far I can write my name is Korean...which impressed my co-teacher much less than I thought it would. What would impress him about that? I don't know...Korean kindergarteners and I now have something in common?

Anyway here's a blurry photo I snapped while riding my bike (sorry mom...but look no traffic! Plus it's good for practicing balance):


This is the view driving from my school (which I stopped to take a photo of):

Minus the streetlight....the mountains are really beautiful. It's been very cloudy and raining a lot here because of monsoon season, so today was an unusually nice day.

In cute news, I found the pet store where all the Koreans get their tiny dogs from:

The best thing about this picture is that you can see me making my "awww-I-want-it!" face in the mirror. I have to say...this guy is making Gus look bad...


Sunday, July 8, 2012

Drinkin- Excuse me, I mean Hiking and Rafting in Korea

This weekend I went hiking and rafting in Yeongwol, Gangwon-do (a neighboring province) with Climbing in Korea, a Meetup group based in Seoul. I'd heard rumors about hiking in Korea, and they all involved beer and women wearing heels, so I figured it wouldn't be too difficult. Of course, I probably should have figured that since this is an expat group with "climbing" in the title, that their version of an "easy" hike would be a bit different from mine. What I imagined would be a nice two hour stroll through the countryside, turned into three hours of this:


I naively took this self-congratulatory photo, wanting to document my conquest of the staircase. Little did I know however the next twenty minute leg of the path would be just as steep...minus the staircase, plus a side rope to dangle on as I huffed and puffed up the mountain. For the most part I am in good hiking shape, but the soju I drank the night before disagreed with my life decisions.


Thankfully a little mind-over-matter attitude, along with my just rip-the-band-aid-off approach to physical activity, helped me to high tail it most of the way up despite the lovely burning sensation in my calves. The views at the top were certainly worth it. I plan to keep doing hikes like this to see more of Korea. Plus the company is better than twiddling my thumbs alone in my apartment on the weekends.


When we reached the top we received an enthusiastic greeting from a group of Korean hikers. Now I should explain here that Koreans are, or at least like to try to be, extremely fashionable. In general, even on the subway, I always feel like there's a fashion show going on that no body told me about. On the subway at 6 AM you'll see girls in skinny jeans and sky high stiletto heels (and I'm pretty sure they're not coming home from a late night at a club, though some might be). Apparently though, you must be fashionable even whilst hiking. No Korean hiker would be ready to go anywhere without head to toe, top of the line, brightly colored synthetic hiking clothes. No old, free college t-shirts and worn out yoga pants here.

Anyway, once at the top we were given a bottle of makkoli, traditional Korean rice wine, by a jolly old man who was apart of the group pictured above.  I smiled at the old man as I drank a small cup of  the too-sweet, luke warm beverage, secretly wishing for bottle of Gatorade to appear. An old woman warned us not to drink too much so we wouldn't go crazy on the way down. It was fun to partake in this tradition with the other group, but I have to say its strange drinking on a mountain top since I've always thought of sipping on beer or wine as a sitting-on-your-front-porch activity. Clearly I've been missing out.

When in Korea, make like this guy and grab your makkoli (that green, soda bottle looking thing).




Here's an unimpeded view of the river. Usually the water is a nice shade of blue-green, but we had some monsoon rain the day before which stirred up the silt, etc. Luckily these rains make for good rafting which came next!


Here's me throwing up a peace sign with the Korean hikers. The nice man next to me let me hold his walking stick so I'd look more legit, but it was still kind of hard to blend in....

In case anyone was wondering, they invited us to take pictures with them, so I didn't have to awkwardly jump in. It might seem insensitive using a hiking group as a tourist attraction for a photo, but I assure you the using was mutual and all in good fun.


Halfway through the hike we walked along the river, but the path was pretty badly flooded. Luckily I seem to have retained my rock hopping skills from childhood. The worst part actually was the hornets nest on the path that led to some pretty bad stings! I was spared from injury but one girl who was stung on her lower leg could barely walk afterwards! Thus my fear of insects intensifies...the giant spider we saw didn't help either.

Once we got to the river though everyone was excited. They made us do some light warm up exercises which was pretty hilarious considering we had just been hiking for over three hours. The river was fast but calm, only one set of rapids nearly sent me tumbling off the raft. The most action we got really was using our paddles to engage in splash fights with other boats. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures since I don't have a water proof camera. If you really must see a rafting picture, I suppose you can Google "rafting in Gangwon-do Korea"

For your continued entertainment I'll end the post with my new favorite re-occuring theme: crazy Asian stuffed animals. I really want to get a dog but I don't want to pay for vet expenses/ I'm really not home that much anyway. So instead I decided to purchase a stuffed animal that made me laugh. I think it already has a name...and might be a her...but I'm going to call him Gus because I think something about that name really captures his expression. Gus, meet world. World, meet Gus:


Not sure why his face is like that...maybe he drank too much Soju, or just doesn't like what you're saying to him right now.


 



Thursday, July 5, 2012

Gyeongbokgung Palace

So in general I won't post about every museum/palace/art gallery, etc I see because it would make this blog endless and boring, but it's definitely worth mentioning Gyeongbokgung (just sound it out) Palace in Seoul since it is one of the most famous attractions. However, I'm less interested in writing about its cultural/ historical value, than its aesthetic appeal. I'm not sure how often people recommend this...but I would pay the $2 entrance fee just to sit here every once and a while:


Although there are lots of tourists milling around, the palace grounds are so huge and there is so much to see that it's pretty easy to find a relatively quiet spot to sit, relax, and enjoy the view. To give you an idea of how big this place is (keep in mind that this place is also smack dab in the middle of downtown Seoul) here is map of the complex. This part above, the lake shrine area as I'm going to call it, is just the part that I circled on the map:


Guided tours take about two hours. However, after taking a whirlwind tour of Hongdae the night before I wasn't up for a two hour history lesson, so I read the little guide book which contained the above map instead. What I really learned from this guide book? Why, among many many other reasons, the Koreans have every right to hold a grudge against the Japanese. This palace was first built in 1395, but the original structures are virtually gone because the Japanese completely destroyed it...twice.  Parts of it are still in the process of restoration.

I'm glad they're working on it though. Here's the view from the bench I sat on for about 45 minutes:


If you want to be truly amazed, I'd recommend coming here just to take a walk...I realize the history is important, but sometimes it's nice to actually absorb and truly see your surroundings, rather than listen to a tour guide drone on for two hours and rush from building to building. Instead, try to retain some of the wonder. You can also come here and be amazed at this:


And crane your neck to gawk at ceilings like this:


Unfortunately it's not the greatest picture since I took it with my iPhone and basically had to lie down on the ground to snap the picture (you can't physically walk into many of the buildings, you have to look from outside), but you can get the idea of how elaborate the interiors of these buildings are.

Ta ta for now! Enjoy the view!

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Safety in Korea

True to my word, I've actually started going for daily runs along the river in Yeoju. To my surprise  I've found that you can run there after dark without running into unwanted company! The first time I went down there it was near sunset, so I thought I'd have to check it out and leave before the creepers and druggies showed up...but then I remembered I am in rural Korea. In fact, although I rarely see people doing anything alone here, I was joined by lots of girls who appeared to be getting their late evening work out in....though I'll say that they don't go for runs like I do...they all stare as I huff, puff, and wheeze passed them. It kind of feels like running in a smoggy sauna, but I guess I'll get used to it eventually. Also, people in Korea seem to have a lot of fancy work out gear considering that many of them don't appear to do much working out.

By the river at night. Crappy camera, it isn't actually that dark.
Anyway, the point is that I realized in America I think I would be hard pressed to find a riverside trail where single women felt comfortable running and walking alone at night. The path isn't even lit, there is just enough residual light from the street above to help you see where you're going. I think there are a couple of reasons for this. First, Koreans tend to work late and thus do things like getting in a workout much later than people would in the States. In general, shops, stores, restaurants, and other places of business are open much later here than I think they would be in small town America (*cough* St. Louis *cough*).

See? Lovely pedestrian street all light up at night.

Second, crime rates are much lower here. I'm not saying Korea is perfect, it definitely has its problems, but I think the lack of crime can be attributed to Korean culture and values. As my friend and I like to joke about the Chinese, "upholding the family honor" is just as important in Korea. People consider their actions not just a reflection of themselves, but of their families too. This certainly holds one more accountable for one's actions. Third, drugs are extremely taboo, and not in the American "it's illegal and people do it anyway way", but seriously...not that I would really know, but drug culture here appears to be almost non-existent.

When you don't have to worry about drug abuse and crime, a lot of possibilities open up...running along a river at night, wandering around at night in general, lots of public bathrooms, etc. Now I'm not suggesting that America tries to go drug-free Korea style. The war on drugs is already fruitless and costly, and I think it's already way too ingrained into mainstream culture (the glorification of the 60s and what not). However, although Korean society is much more restrictive in many ways, it's interesting to consider the possibilities, should I even say, the freedoms that arise when you don't have to worry so much about crime. It's not just Yeoju. Given its size, Seoul is considered one of the safest cities in the world, with minimal violent crimes and even low rates of theft and pickpocketing (not to say it doesn't happen, I know people in Yeoju who've had their motor bikes stolen).

Here you can see the arches I was talking about.

Especially with the new healthcare legislation being passed in the United States, I've been thinking a lot about Korean vs. American political and social values. What laws, social norms, and traditions really lead to the kinds of freedoms I've experienced here? I've never felt safe walking around at night in the States the way I do here. People may stare or say things, but it's harmless compared to worrying about being mugged or worse. Of course, there is certainly a trade-off; because of the high pressure put on individuals here to represent the achievements of themselves and their families, mental illnesses are seen as weaknesses rather than medical conditions that need to be dealt with seriously. Suicide is a huge unresolved issue here.

But...to end on a lighter note, here's some other funny things I discovered while wandering the streets of Yeoju at night (my new favorite activity). Plus it makes me feel like I'm working out more...

Squid tank in front of a restaurant....see? You can have your squid and eat it too! Okay I admit I really just wanted to make that joke...

I think it's a bar...clearly a business in the front, party in the back kind of place.

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